Friday, 3 October 2014

Carlisle with the UK Bike Section

Not sure if I should be on this site as the Group has been renamed,  just known now as the Scottish Motorcycle Touring group.

I was down in Carlisle a couple of weeks ago to join up with memebers of the UK section,   hasd a supwerb day out around the Lakes and mountains,  the Hardknott Pass being particularly hard with a couple of near mishaps.
Nice to see the group again, good that they were prepared to make the long run North, which saved us going too far South.

Saturday, 26 July 2014

Still ticking along.

Been a bit of a time since this blog was updated.    No doubt now that Mr McInally has reappeared after his wonderful tour of the land of Oz, things might brighten up.    Uncle Dougz has been afloat in his boat,  following the route of the puffer Parra Handy through the Crinan Canal, flying the Jolly Roger, and no doubt sending letters home in his empties.
Steed of steel has been clocking up the miles, down to Border Bikes at Duns to see Andy Mimms and have a coffee and a blether-  home via Greenlaw, Soutra Isle, a nice run, no hurry no fuss.

Garmin are organising a replacement Sat Nav for the one which I lost in Wales, probaly a sheep wandering about with it round its neck.     Damaged helmet repaired under warranty by BMW and even had to replace a broken microphone on my Autocom,   but with no one to talk to an nowhere to go does not really matter at the moment.

Charity cycle run on 10th August with 2000 plus cycles taking part through the Borders so we may well be involved there.    Day before (9th)  we have thirty four IPA members from Rochdale comeing to see us at the Mercat Grill before they go to the tattoo.

Wednesday, 16 July 2014

From one minor hiccup to another

A sort of an update after my mishaps in Wales.
  New seat arrived within eighteen hours of notifing the supplier.- super , slick service
 My helmet is about to be fixed by BMW who have sent a whole front piece as a replacement - just going to take somebody a while to strip the helmet down and sort it.   In the meantime I snapped the flip top face panel down and chopped off the microphone from my Autocom headset -  at least I know I can get in touch with the supplier as they have already fixed my PTT switch which jammed after two days use.
 However, Garmin UK are a different ball game - lots of adverts all over the place, in garages, petrol stations, etc, but I have rung them several times, fifteen minutes on a premium rate line - who is the silly works here -   typical,  ring a sales line and get an immediate response, call a customer services manager - different game.    Many thanks to Steve Bolton, his wife and daughter who drove the road last weekend looking for the lost Garmin.
I would have hoped that if someone found it and it was working that the Garmin computer would have been able to identify it if they tried to plug it in !!   Bit like Sky TV.

Dougz popped up on the screen this week looking for chums to go for a ride out,  but I have been otherwise occupied. But there is another rally planned for Carlisle which looks interesting.

Saturday, 12 July 2014

IPA British Rally to Welsh Wales

An IPA motor cycle section weekend in Wales
Winding the clock back to last weekend and I found a few photos of my trip to Wrexham with the IPA British Motorcycle section.

Here we are heading off on Saturday morning from the Premier Inn, Town Centre , Wrexham,
then it was off into the wilds of Welsh Wales . We did stop, as I reported earlier, at the Ponderossa on top of the Horseshoe Pass , where I spotted this unusual replical of a Ural Combination.

The car park was very busy, although the Police did tell us that there were a lot less than usual,


Really strange how we had no problems with our bikes in Europe, leaving them unattended, not a problem, yet in Edinburgh we had three knicked by the local yobs. In Italy Mr McIinally and the guys took the micky out of me when I was seated in the shade. Here we had our own security man who made it his business to keep an eye on the bikes , cheers Mr Foulton.

Sunday, 6 July 2014

IPA Ride out 5th July 2014

 

The Steed of Steel has a collapse.

Another lovely morning here in Wrexham, so looks like another ride out into the Welsh countryside.

Yesterday,(Sat) we left in a convoy, fifteen bikes, and our leader took us out into the wilds,  we had about one mile on a dual carriageway and the remainder on everything from single track roads to the A5 - long sweeping bends, tight corners, through the mountains of Capel Curig,past the National Moutaineering Centre at Plas y Brennan,   the white water centre; mountain railways, copper mines, and some beautiful lakes and reservoirs.    Stopped at Lyn Brenig reservoir and visitor centre, then in the picturesque village of Beddgelen for lunch.
Only a few miles back on the road when disaster struck, my Garmin Sat Nav popped off the mounting on a really potholed piece of road, and I did not realise what had happened for a few minutes,  stopped had words with my following bike who had seen it but could not stop me due to the roads.    I went back and had a look but no trace ,it could have been anywhere and is likely to be in bits.     I had wisely marked up the route on a new road atlas so I knew where I was and how to get home, old style. So set off,  taking my time, admiring the views and at one point thought I had intercepted the group who were running a figure of eight route -  so sat at Betws-y-Coed for half an hour.  No luck so set off along the A5 towards Wrexham.
Had a "senior moment" and thought I was heading in the wrong direction - despite having the sun on my back !!  (heading east)   so pulled in to recheck the map - and like a friend of mine did recently, lost my footing and the Steed of Steel hit the deck (gently) no damage other than pride.  However I did have to flag down a passing motorcyclist who helped get it up again.  Thereafter a slow run, even saw the steam train on the Llangollen Railway .   End of the day made it back to the hotel about 25 minutes before the main group.
Headed out as a group for a meal - not a good choice "Frankie and Bennies" where we had three different tables -  place being busy our meal was eighty minutes in arriving and steak was "chuck" so it was not eaten.

Wrexham town centre was bouncing with activity, lots of scantily clad young ladies ,  semi drunk, police and bouncers at all the pubs.  We spoke to three Police who said that come midnight it would be wild with fights and drunks.   Bit too old for that so home to bed.

Wednesday, 2 July 2014

Just another days news

Panda monium in Edinburgh
Turned out to be an exciting day !!! maybe - there is a saying about not being able to get blood from a stone - today was my turn, and the plebotomist really struggled in her attempts, two arms, three holes and maybe not enough for the necessary tests.

But, later in the day I ended up at Edinburgh zoo and managed to drop in to see the two Panda Bears, who thankfully were neither hiding nor asleep - wonderfull to see them out and about climbing around their pens and then it was tea time - happy days.

Several changes in the zoo layout, new pool for the penguins, and the meercats have been moved into a new area near the entrance.

Cheered me up to watch the wee chappies for a while. Anyway, off to Ayr again early morning, need to waken the Steed of Steel.

Continuing and confusing saga of Scottish IPA hospitality

IPA get their dates confused (maybe)
Slightly duller morning with the threat of a shower late, which makes a change from the last few days, but it is a bit more comfortable on the motor cycle.  Certainly not dull the past couple of days at the World Cup,   listened to the USA game last night on the radio,  nail biting to the end, and at Wimbledon, the young Australian  Nick Kyrgios  beating Rafael Nadal has caused a real stir,  so Andy Murray and Co, of the top seeds had better pull their socks up.

Down at the Mercat Grill last night for an IPOA dinner when our guests were Russ Baker and his family over from Ontario,  and as a great coincidence they turned out to be friends of Ray Massicotte who we met at the Hackenberg battery, near Metz on 13th June.    Super meal, Scottish theme so do not think we have our dates confused when you see the haggis appearing.  Two goes at the haggis last night, haggis cigars ( not the smoking kind) and haggis, neeps and tatties as a main.

 
Must comment on the motorcycle theme,   I see that Harley Davidson have produced an electric motorcycle,  ( might need a hellish long extension cable)  named the  "Livewire",  top speed 90 mph with enough power to do 100 miles between charges ( then need three hours to charge) rather than fill the tank - sign of the times.
At least I can get 200 miles before the Steed needs to top up and my botty have a rest, so that will be at lest one stop on our way to Wrexham on Friday.
Mr McInally now in upside down land - no sign of him dipping in the ocean yet. 

 

Thursday, 26 June 2014

Who needs to travel when we have such a lovely country.

What a beautiful morning when I arose, and with the sun in the sky I changed my mind about the plans for the day, no point in trailing about when the sun was up. Managed a bit of gardening, completed a few tasks, but as it clouded oveer I had a change of heart and decided that the call of the open road was too much. So off I headed on the "Steed of Steel", flask and rolls, and the magic chair of course. Not really anything planned but I headed off into East Lothian, through Tranent, Gifford, and headed off over the moors to the Whiteadder Reservoir. Bloody massive wind farm up on the moors, such a disgrace, and probably only about six miles, line of sight from the Torness nuclear power station - talk about an overkill - cheers Mr Salmond. Reservoir looked very welcoming
it was really odd to see a long line of ducks swimming back and forth.
On to Duns where I dropped in to see Andy Mimms at Border Bikes who was pleased to hear that apart from the bulb dropping off the hooter, the bike had run smoothly through Europe. Had my rolls and coffee and set off - decided to avoid the A1 so took to the back roads, through Abbey St Batham and over to Oldhamstocks, then took the wrong road !! ended up driving through a ford on a stream, then on a steep hill had to dismount and open a gate to proceed. At one stage I thought I was going to have to do an about turn, but ended up through Innerwick and Spott. I spotted a watering fountain at the side of the road obviously used in the past by drovers, horse drawn carts , etc.


Now, here I am in the middle of nowhere, sitting on the bike taking the photo when, of all things, a Police patrol car passed, giving me an odd look, but to see the Polis afloat in such an out of the way place came as a surprise.
Onwards, up and down, narrow roads, etc, and eventually I was rewarded with some stunning views out over the Firth of Forth to the Isle of May and also the Bass Rock




I have to say it was a super run out, peace and quiet, interesting roads, bends, hills, dips, and plenty sheep to avoid. Nice to be able to avoid the main A1 as I meandered towards Haddington, through Garvald, Nungate, and then from the market town, back to the Mercat Grill, Whitecraig along the old A1, probably out for four hours and covered some ninety miles.
Home to Penicuik, two dozen unscrambled eggs in the pannier - thank goodness - in time for a bit of tennis ( raining in London - tough luck) and then some footie.
Off on yet another training course in the morning - which I could see far enough, but needs must (and also the Law) .



 

Friday, 20 June 2014

Dreaming, maybe not

Was I ever away in Europe, seems like an eternity already, and now , so much happening any memories as so distant to be lost. Any benefit gained has all but been wiped out, such is life.

Couple of days ago I was talking to my friend Suburu man and discovered that he, his two sons and his cousin had taken four cars and instead of spending a long weekend on a racing track in England had done a ten day tour of Europe "running" a number of the well known mountain passes, including the Stelvio, which they drove over the day before we did, thoroughly enjoying the experience.

Fifteen days in the saddle took their toll physically and I am now having to return to my exercising regime and keeping a diary to please the cardio rehab people. Even managed my first swim for several weeks yesterday. One consolation is that I will not offend folks by refusing the meals put in front of me, but on the other hand the new menu at the Mercat Grill is very nice.

World Cup woes for the men from England, so much for highly paid prima donna's doing their bit, and Mrs Rooney has surely not had the chance to unpack her eighteen suitcases - if the FA have any sense they will ship the squad home as soon as they get their third game over with, unless of course the palyers agree to pay their own costs.

Had a nice run down to Ayr today on the "Steed of Steel", which was raring to go, having had a new lease of life. I took lots of back roads, and also the deserted old A74 from Abington to Douglas, so peaceful and less hassle with no traffic. Weather was lovely so when I finished the job I was able to return via Mauchline, Muirkirk, etc, and even saw the crowds out waiting for the Commonwealth baton to pass through Robbie Burn's country.

I even tried my luck for a cuppa at a friend's house in Mauchline, they either knew I was coming and were hiding or were at work - my loss, their lucky day.

Wimbledon starts next week and Andy Murray will be back in action, so obviously need to wish him luck, and with his current form, he will need it.

Lots on tomorrow, great excitement - Macmerry Gala day !!! so I am digging out my body armour, or perhaps the Peebles Beltane festival, where one of IPA visitors from the USA will be attending.

Tuesday, 17 June 2014

Potential new member for the group

Up with the larks this morning, but as my router was down impossible to get writing.

Several tasks at home kept me occupied till nearly lunch time, however, mounted the Steed of Steel and headed to town to my Cardio Group.

Interesting comment by the nurses when I stated that my legs and ankles were swollen after the long ride home. They advised that we should have stopped at least every hour and had a walk, exercise to stretch our legs and get the circulation going as failure could well lead to DVT, especially afer several days of sitting cramped. Something worth bearing in mind for future trips.

Thought I should share the following with you, fixed my malfunctioning horn (squeezy hooter) with a bit of imaginative fiddling - so now I can upset the natives on my trip to Wrexham, unless of course, some bounder chooses to pinch said item. Ron Barnes did not think it was repairable as we did not have the same technology as the Chinese.

No idea who this was, but he was seen on several occasions following close behind the group, (thanks to William Johnston for sending me this surveillance snap taken as we circumnavigated the M25).

Home, fed , watered and coping with normality.

Home again after a wonderful trip around Europe with a smashing group of fellow IPA members, all run by the Region 1 IPA - Scottish Motor cycle touring Group.


Last couple of days,  from Metz to Dunkerque and then from Dunkerque to Calais, through the tunnel on the train and then a steady run home were long days, for me the 496 miles on Monday being the longest I have ridden in one day.

Overall my mileage on the Steed of Steel was 3296 and I managed to average 70 MPG which is not too bad considering the varying conditions we had to cope with.  Only used a wee dribble of oil and a quick quaff of aqua.

Highlight has to be reaching the top of the Passo Di Stelvio having (foolishly) followed Tom, Iain, John and Steve - took a while and a coffee to stop the hands shaking -  it is certainly a hard ride on a touring bike fitted with panniers and top boxes,  compared to the lunatic crotch jockeys on their sports machines, total nutters - no wonder two were marmalised the following day when they met a car.

The Stelvio was bad enough, but as were looking for a  petrol garage we ended up (accidentally) going over the Passo Di Gavio,  now going up was Ok, into the snow fields,  but no one told us there was hardly a road down - no barriers, narrow, tight bends - and certainly carrying a parachute is recommended as it was a long way over the edge to the ground zero.

Now need to get myself back into shape again,  two weeks in the saddle, good food, and wine have taken their toll on the old physique, and according to Mrs. B I have gone white haired since leaving ( shock).

Steed now cleaned and ready for a run out at Royal Ascot this week,  well worth an each way bet.

Monday, 16 June 2014

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Sunday, 15 June 2014

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What a fantastic trip

Well today ,after an early rise , we left Dunkirk for the Tunnel. These are my last photos of what was a fantastic tour. So many thanks go to the organising team, Tom McInally , Stuart Blaikie , Iain Buchanan and Doug Wright. You've set a high standard to follow! Those of you who couldn't make this one , well what a miss , good luck getting on the next one ( whenever ), you might have to fight me for a place! Carolyn

Saturday, 14 June 2014

Father of the Steed of Steel

Currently in Dunkerque fed and watered and all ready  for an early rise in the morning to take the train beneath the English Channel -   concept is a bit strange,  you leave at 0800 , arrive at the  other side at 0730 !!!!    because of the difference with GMT.  Bit like a cross between the Tardis and a submarine.   Sort of reminiscent of the days when the Concorde arrived in New York time wise before it left London.

We had a long run today of about 270 miles mainly on dual carriageway and some of it really badly maintained.   Three of the group took the longer route by the Peage  and paid their thirty four euros for the much faster and quieter road.

Meantime the "Steed of Steel" did well,  and having spotted this picture on the wall in the museum I thought it might fin in with Steve Bolton's funny captions 
So,  another long day in the saddle for us tomorrow, unlike Rennie who had to leave his loaned bike in Metz,  take hire car to Paris and has already reached home by flying direct to Edinburgh.   Now he has to wait and see what BMW are going to do for him until such time as they have decided how to fix the fault on his new 1200RT

Ouverage Du Hackenberg

Had ourselves a quiet morning, a wander round various parts of the City and I ended up going to the mail railway station to see the trains.  Bit of a rumpus going on as the French Rail Unions have called a strike for tomorrow.    This nothelping one of our group who has had to hand his replacement BMW bike in to dealers here in Metz to be returned to Milan.  he now has to make his way to Paris by hire car and then fly home to Ednburgh.

As the breakfast here in the hotel was excellent only a few of us joined George in the bar next door for a light lunch before setting off to Hackenberg.  George drove his car with the three ladies and six of us followed by bike,  certainly helps when someone knows the local roads, as our so called Sat Nav devices were sending us off in all directions.

We made it in time to get the English speaking tur and joined a few other, and in conversation we discovered that three of the men were members of the IPA and all serving Police Officers from Toronto area.
They had a load of badges in their car so we all received a small gift from them
The Ouverge du  Hackenberg is a massive underground gun battery, or a series of gun batteries spread over a very large are and linked by tunnels some 100 plus feet underground which stretch for several miles.  Our  Guide gave us an introduction and then we boarded the train which was used in the system during the war.  This particular complex of  gun turrets is part of the Maginot Line  which the French constructed as a defensive against the Germans.  Howvewr it did not take the French long to surrender their positions and the Germans took them over until the Yanks arrived.

At one point of the tour we were taken to the surface in the ammunition lifts which, like the gun turret they supplied was still in good working order- we even had a demonstration of the turret rising and then turning, amazing.
Obviously there are more photographs but at this late hour it is not possible to add them

After the tour, then to the museum, etc we left and were guided back to Metz by our IPA friend, George - once again baffling the sat nav by taking short cuts.

We have once again been fed and watered and are now preparing for a long 270 mile to Dunkirk tomorrow

Metz in th Heat

A seriously noisy night last night, add to hot and sweaty as we spend our first night in twelve days back in a City Centre rather than out on the outskirts or in a rural setting.
Yesterday we all took various routes, all designed to avoid motorways and major congestion with the result that the region of France was treated to the sight of  motorcycles meandering through country  villages.

Twas my turn to have a bash at navigating as I am still not happy with my Sat nav  so of we set, lovely morning and at the first big roundabout we met one of the other groups coming towards us, having already been geographically embarrassed (lost).     Never mind it was only a short time later that we parted company again as I took a wrong turning !!!    I suppose back in England it would have been a case of "wandering lonely as a cloud, through hills and dales", but here it was rolling countryside, varying shades of green and golds as barley and maize ; forests;  blues of rivers, lakes and canals, etc.

Our first stop was at a small canal basin where we watched two private cabin cruisers being raised through a set of lock gates ,  the owner was from England and told me he spent three months a year on the boat cruising the canals of Europe -  very nice.
The Poste lady -  (mail person) stopped to talk to us, and after five fun filled minutes left to spread the gossip to the locals about the two passing Scots motorcyclists.
Despite passing through numerous small villages we could not find a cafe for a breakfast (late) and eventually stopped at a garage for petrol - found that he did coffee and stopped for a while.   We asked for directions which started a great debate amongst the three locals in the bar, and once they discovered we were Scots gave us the correct ones.     I gave the "Patron" a minature of whisky and he in return dashed off returning with a nice bottle of wine for us.

We passed various French military establishments out in the countryside including a massive air base, complete with a fighter plane at the entrance -   and so on till we reached the Cathedral town of Toul.
We stopped for lunch at a roadside cafe, but our peace was shattered by the arrival of the local pompiers who had been called to a fire in the underground car park nearby, where we could see large clouds of billowing smoke.
Entertainment, free of charge, and we were soon joined by a local taxi driver who wanted to talk to us about the motorbikes, so that proved interesting as he had travelled widlely.

Onwards until we reached Metz, where our IPA host , George was waiting at the hotel Metropole, opposite the main railway station.  This area was a regular target for German bombers during the war and a full set of the air raid warning sirens is visible on one of the nearby buildings.
Quick shower and change and we headed for the adjacent bar to talk to George who turned out to be the sole representative of the  local IPA branch.   Despite his lack of English and our very poor French we had a good chat and resolved to meet thee later for dinner.   In the meantime I had a go at pouring pinds behind the big bar and have been offered an apprenticeship ( makes a change from work experience at the Mercat Grill).   But nothing changes, all my customers were Scots !!!
Into the tartan trews once more and back for dinner which was nice, a convivial evening of food and drink, exchange of gifts with Tom receiving an engraved goblet from George.

Many photos taken and constant stream of updates put on the Region 1 - IPA Scotland Motorcycle Touring Group face book site.
Headed off to bed, leaving some of the chaps to watch the first game of the 2014 World Cup Competition in Brazil.

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Friday, 13 June 2014

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Thursday, 12 June 2014

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Wednesday, 11 June 2014

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Tuesday, 10 June 2014

Mont Blanc Tunnel - Italy to France

Now sitting in the relative cool of the evening at our hotel base for the next two days in Annecy.  Pleased to feel a nice breeze after the heat of the day during our 270 mile ride from Lake Como, across northern Italy, and up from the plains into the Alps where we took the short (but expensive) route through the Mont Blanc tunnel (£25).  At least I can say that I have done it - an amazing piece of engineering through totally spectacular scenery.

Arrived here, very hot and having removed outer bike gear showered with the rest on to give them a wash -  dried in an hour in the heat.
Was trying to add photos  however, the WiFi at this hotel is so slow it will be breakfast before it loads.
The hotel is directly opposite the Annecy private airport so apart from traffic noise we have the odd light aircraft taking off.
Old Dougz is doing a bit of slagging regarding my literacy,  however as he comes from the West of Scotland, speaking the Queen's English is slightly more difficult for him -
This is a Campanile Hotel, accommodation is not as good as we have had up till now,  evening meal was reasonable, but we will be out on the town tomorrow night..

Sunshine and Storms in Annecy

We have had a rest day today, so took the bus into the Centre of Annecy where we split up and went our respective ways.
I must say that this is a lovely Town, in majestic settings and all the better for the sunshine - unfortunately it was so hot that shade was the main aim of the day.
Had a good walk, toured the shops and then, being in need of a rest  took a two hour boat trip on round the Lake on the waterbus. The boat stopped at all the small villages dotted round the Lake, and walkers, cyclists boarded or left.  There is a cycleway of about 18 km along an old railway line along the side of the lake which seemed to be very popular.
The sky about the overlooking mountains was full of hang gliders making good use of thermals and going well up into the sky,  would hate to see where some of them landed.
Returning to the Town I visited the Town Hall, Cathedral, and wandered in and out of shops in the old town which has lots of wee narrow streets bought some mouth watering cherries and fresh almonds in a fruit shop.

Eventually, time to find the group so headed for the bus station where once again Dougz was left left behind.   Heading for the hotel the heavens opened as we were hit by a massive thunderstorm, lightening, etc which was so bad that when we left the bus I decided to have a picnic in the bus stop - much to the amusement  (bewilderment) of the locals..

Have had a car park meet, all making use of our camping seats, few beers, and generally slagged each other.

BUT   tomorrow back on the "Steed of Steel" as we head northwards to Luxeuil Les Bains. for the night.

Monday, 9 June 2014

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Sunday, 8 June 2014

Panchia Italy




Arrived in Panchia and had some great fun and some great motorcycling. Mauro and the family and staff at the Panorama Hotel were fantastic and very helpful. On Saturday night we had the formal dinner and Ian got a loan of an accordion. What a great night! Arrived in the sleepy village called Carenno in the mountains. Scorching hot day and we were gals to get here. Lovely family run hotel Albergo Rosa where mama made us traditional Italian Fayre. Went over numerous passes including the Stelvio.


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Saturday, 7 June 2014

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Friday, 6 June 2014

Bends, bends and bends and not the divers version

O M G  (  Oh My God),  what a day,  long one at that  thirteen hours on the go.  We set off this morning with 114  other bikes and caused mayhem as we passed through towns and villages stooping everything that moved.  eventually arrived at the Forst Brewery where we stopped and had a lovely roads lunch.
Having spoken to one of the other riders who looks after the National Parks we were recommended to try one of the more famous mountain passes, so we split from the group and headed off into the mountains - as they say fools rush in where angles fear to tread !!!!   and did we not go for it big time -  I have never ever seen hills, bends and  roads like these,  onwards and upwards, and upwards,  1st and 2 nd gear on the really tight bends,  meeting both cars and bikes on the way down.  Not counting the nutcases who passed us.  At the top,  masses of folks, cyclists, bikers, and skiers, all sitting basking in the sun and surrounded by snow.
The road up-

That is me smiling at 7000 ft , despite huffing and puffing a bit.  BUT the "Steed of Steel" did its bit no bother,
Down the other side,  not quite so bad, but bad enough

Wonderful ride down, bit wet at times as we went through the snow tunnels.
went looking for petrol, took a wrong turning and ended up going over an other  2600m pass, this one single track and with deep snow on either side of the road.

So, whether we liked it or not we had to go up and own,  then, bloody well up and down yet another, and another .
Never mind ,  I have now learned how to ride round hair pin bends !!!
Home at 8.45 pm and nearly missed our dinner

You're missing a treat!

Well all of you who may have wanted to join this trip and couldn't, you are missing a treat! Well organized , great company , plenty of flexibility to allow for everyone, and absolutely stunning scenery.
Enroute to the Grossglockner